Well, I find myself here updating only two days before I’m scheduled to leave the mind-shatteringly beautiful chaos of Lord Shiva’s Varanasi. This place, Varanasi in particular, India in general, cannot be pinned down by any this-or-that linguistic dance moves. But my heart is doing cartwheels and my eyes are leaking gratitude. To have had this precious opportunity to flit about the unknown and kiss the quiet within myself is a blessing I will always carry.
“Embody, don’t embalm,” says Shambhavi. I intend to do my best and share with all of you not merely the fabulous stories of delightfully strange and amazing experiences, but the living change of my whole being.
That said, in an effort to contextualize the photos I’m itching (mosquito-faced and somehow smiling) to show you, here’s a quick rundown of our time here in Kashi/Benares/Varanasi.

9 hr wait on the New Delhi train platform before boarding to Varanasi

we stayed at Singh Guest House in Anandamayee Ghat, Varanasi

Ma Ganga from Anandamayee Ghat, Varanasi

cow pie plaster fun, Varanasi

holding the key, NAMAH SHIVAYA NAMAH SHIVAYA

setting the sankalpa (intention) for our yatra, first day in Varanasi

evening aarti from a boat on the Ganga simply cannot be captured

Sadashiva and Gangi at Ganga aarti

JAI GANESHA!

Varanasi street scene at night

recycled offerings

Anna chillin' with a goat before our boat ride along the ghats

view of the ghats from the Ganga

Nandi and Shiva lingam at Trailoka Swami Mandir, Varanasi

laundry on the ghats

an Ardhanarishwara (Shiva-Shakti) mural, Varanasi

the man claimed to drink 150 cups of chai/day!

that smile! persistence: "hello ma'am, ten rupees?"

ghat kids seeing us off
unpictured highlights chronologically arranged:
Vishwanath Temple: Heavily guarded due to past terrorist attacks. I even had to leave my little pocket lingam outside. A man with kind eyes pressed it to his head and heart and held it for me til we came back out. Inside was beyond beautiful. Struck by the many different forms worship takes.
A literal feast of scents at the home of a 7th generation family of essential oil-makers!
Dream of holding my Dad’s face in my hands and saying I love you.
Ganga boat ride: Kedarnath Temple – the only temple to survive the last major Mogul destruction of temples in the 17th century. One story says that the Mogul invaders were warned it was a very powerful place. When they entered anyway and tried to strike the Shiva lingam, the Nandi murti came alive and attacked them, forcing them to retreat. Manikarnaka ghat – the main cremation ghat in Varanasi, 250 bodies/day are ritually bathed and burned there at the gateway to liberation.

Ganga boat ride

off the boat at Adikesheva Temple, the northernmost temple of Varanasi

sunset over the Ganga
More unpictured highlights:
A fascinating and inspired lecture on the role of devotion in Kashmir Shaivism by Mark Dyczkowski at his home at Narad Ghat. Also the amazing tabla/sitar concert he performed a few days later! A real communion taking place, between the duo of musicians and between the musicians and That Reality, Shiva.
Our nine hour walking yatra, stopping at countless temples, many within people’s homes and shedding any lingering self-consciousness about “doing worship wrong”. There are no words to express what having done with walking yatra means to me. Lingams, lingams, everywhere. My Lord, where could I possibly hide from you? Certainly not in Your holy city, but where can one escape from You who are everywhere, everything? OM NAMAH SHIVAYA
Dinner and spontaneous dance party at the home of Vijay, a local stonecutter and artist, devotee of Lord Ganesha. Such a gift to spend time in a family’s home.
Our peaceful days away in the village of Vindhyachal: hours of sadhana and satsang at the Anandamayi Ma ashram. The property is spectacular, trees flowering and bearing fruit (occasionally freely taken by the most majestic monkeys!), was wonderful to meet the kind and gracious Swamiji. Chai from the walla beside our guest house and the wonderful young people we met there.The Trikon Yatra of three Shakti temples arranged in a triangle. Whew.
I may update once more before I leave with some photos taken in Vindhyachal and since returning to Varanasi, but right now…
I feel so much love for the people here with me. They (and you) brought me here and I feel so thankful to be here with them, practicing and learning together. The fork in my life is melting. Is it now a knife? Clear cut. I know what I want, I know the road I want to take and I’ve tasted my own confidence and strength to go in that direction. I know that I’m walking the right way down the right path for me, with my Teacher and the teachings and this beautiful, inspiring Kula I find myself a part of. There is really no choice. This is it. Jai Ma!
Thank You for Your Love and clearing away of obstacles on this journey. May I live forever at Your feet. OM MA SHARANAM OM MA!

Jaya Ma
See you in a few days, Minneapolis friends. See you in a couple weeks, dear family. See you in a month, Portland. Beaming Love to all of you until our faces meet again!
Love,
Nandi